波尔多及葡萄酒文化城的随笔 / Bordeaux and La Cité du Vin

晴格格 & Isabell

波尔多葡萄酒文化城视频游记 / Helios Vlog: Bordeaux Wine Tour “La cité du vin”

Music: https://www.bensound.com

波尔多镜面广场夜景 / The Water Mirror, Bordeaux by night Photo by Juan Di Nellaon Unsplash

Chinese – 中文原声 – 晴格格

English – 英文原声 – Isabell

在Bardins酒庄的审计课程 / The auditing course at Château Bardins

La Cité du Vin,波尔多葡萄酒文化城2016年5月正式对外开放。2016年7月,Vinifera欧盟硕士第一年的小尾巴,我、在波尔多。M1课程的最后一期在Bordeaux Science Agro的《酒庄风土和商业审计》课程算是第一年一个再好不过的节点。长大了后的我们已经习惯了“每一次完结都是一个新的起点”的定律,很有仪式感地做完小组汇报、一起享用”最后的晚餐”后大家都匆匆忙忙地各奔东西。在去美国酒庄做榨期前夕仍在波尔多徜徉的、一个闲暇的日子里,我独自一人去了La Cité du Vin参观。很喜欢一个人在博物馆里的恣意光景,可以“肆无忌惮”地在自己的兴趣点里“沉沦”下去。

La Cité du Vin officially opened in May 2016. Coincidently, from June to July 2016 -the end of first year of Vinifera EuroMaster- I was in Bordeaux. The last session of my M1 course in Bordeaux was Science Agro’s “Business and Terroir Auditing” it was a perfect ending to my first year. I believe that as we grow up, we become accustomed to the rule that “every end is a new beginning”. After finishing the group report and enjoying the last dinner together, everyone hurried to say farewell and head towards their next destination. Thus I decided to visit La Cité du Vin alone on a leisure day trip to wander around Bordeaux before departing for an American winery for the harvest. My visit to this museum would feel like “sinking” into my passion without scruples. 

波尔多葡萄酒文化城 / La Cité du Vin

波尔多,一座与葡萄酒齐名的城市。一个我第一次获得西农葡萄酒学院提供的出国实习来到的地方。第一次、总是同许多的美好记忆相联系,第一次坐飞机、第一次来法国、第一次在拉格罗斯酒庄工作和生活(第一次的故事太多,会在另一篇博客中专门讲述)。在波尔多走的每一步,都感知到自己内心很纯粹的快乐。也许缘于这里就是葡萄酒游学的终极目的地、没有之一。这里、没有被荒废的时光。因为整个城市的每一个角落、乡村的每一片葡萄园里都写满了有关葡萄酒的故事和葡萄酒学子最初的梦想。没错,连空气中都洋溢着愉悦和葡萄酒的味道。曾经初学葡萄酒就心驰神往的地方、今朝不再只是梦境、却恍惚仍在酣梦中。

Bordeaux itself is a city that enjoys as much fame as their world-class wine. It’s the place where I was first offered an internship by the College of Enology, at Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University. It was a time of many firsts, filled with many golden memories; flying for the first time, coming to France for the first time, working and living in Château Lagarosse for the first time (there are just too many new experiences from this period to mention them all now, these will be specifically talked about in another blog entry). Every step I took in Bordeaux, I felt pure happiness in my heart. Perhaps this could be considered the ultimate destination for a wine study tour. Here, there is no time to be wasted because every corner of the city and every vineyard in the countryside is full of stories about wine, the quintessential dream of every wine student. Indeed, even the air is filled with pleasure and notes of wine. The place fascinates wine students who are first learning about wine, myself included, and it was no longer just a dream, yet it still felt like a dream.

拉格罗斯酒庄 / Château Lagarosse

传统与创新并存,这里的葡萄酒科研也名列前沿。会有人对波尔多仍在沿用1855年的分级提出质疑、然而更多人不知道的是,这些价值相当不菲、不愁销量的葡萄酒仅仅是这个城市葡萄酒的少数。波尔多年产450万桶葡萄酒。大多数和来自世界其他产区的葡萄酒一样,在寻找销路、平衡价格之间颠簸的前行。波尔多意识到了来自新世界葡萄酒的崛起、也从未停止寻找在自己风土里酿造更优质葡萄酒的边界。以各种混酿著称的波尔多,给了酿酒师很多自由创造的空间、不同年份的不同诠释。从起泡葡萄酒、干白、桃红、红葡萄酒、甜白,应有尽有,可以全套搭配一道不落的法式大餐。

Tradition and innovation coexist here, and wine research is also at the forefront. Some people may question Bordeaux still using the 1855 classification, but what many people are unaware of is that these wines -which are worth a fortune and have no issues with sales- are only a minority of Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux wineries produce 4 and half million barrels of wines per year. Most wines, like those from other regions in the world, are in a balancing act between finding a market and negotiating prices. Bordeaux is aware of the rise of wines from the new world, and has never stopped pushing the boundaries-, making finer wines from its own territory. Bordeaux, which is famous for its various blends, gives winemakers a lot of room for creativity and different interpretations from one vintage to another. From sparkling (Crément), dry white, rosé, red, luscious sweet white wine, to everything you can image, all pairing with a full-course formal French dinner.

葡萄酒的终极目的地:波尔多 / The ultimate wine destination – Bordeaux

斥资8千万欧元建造的这个葡萄酒主题的博物馆、就坐落在葡萄酒之乡波尔多。这里有着各种期待中的高科技、同时也有丰富的感官互动、一个不乏葡萄酒知识、却又能够保持住大众兴趣的好去处。首先,建筑设计精致大气、优雅现代。远远望去,像一支大型的醒酒器。走进这个葡萄酒博物馆,爱酒的人仿佛来到了一个世外桃源。这里、不仅仅是波尔多、法国葡萄酒的缩影、这里映射着全世界的葡萄酒。数码科技的运用无处不在,这会儿你刚听完来自美国纳帕谷的酿酒师的葡萄园里的陈述、一会儿你有可以在勃艮第的Premier Cru和Grand Cru的分级中流连忘返。香气实验室更是将葡萄酒品鉴的闻香环节优化到了极致,各种看得到、闻得到的香气类型此刻都很好的呈现。

The wine-themed museum located in Bordeaux -the French home of wine- was an 80 million euro investment. Here you will find all kinds of high-tech, rich sensory interactive displays, and it is a place where there is no lack of scientific wine information, but it is also entertaining at the same time. First of all, the architectural design is exquisite, elegant and modern. From a distance, it looks like a large decanter. Walking into this wine museum, wine lovers will have seemingly stumbled into paradise. This is not only the epitome of Bordeaux or French wines, but it also pays homage to wines from all over the world. The use of digital technology is everywhere. One moment, you are listening to a presentation on vineyards by winemakers from Napa Valley, USA, and the next second you could be lingering on the classification of Premier Cru and Grand Cru in Burgundy. The aroma laboratory has optimised the aromas for wine tasting to an extreme, where you can mull over and experience all kinds of aromas typically perceived in a wine with live visual aids.

香气实验室 / The Aroma Laboratory

参观的时候看到Bordeaux Science Agro教我们酒庄审计的老师Kees van Leeuwen教授,有种格外的幸福感和小小的骄傲。身为葡萄栽培和葡萄酒酿造部门的主管、在加入Bordeaux Science Agro之前,Kees van Leeuwen教授是白马酒庄(Château Cheval Blanc)的葡萄园经理、现仍担任白马酒庄的顾问。这些为葡萄酒产业做出贡献的学者也将知识传递给了世界各地前来求学的学子。也是因为教授的关系,我们这一届最精彩的一次参观就要数我一觉错过的白马酒庄了。这份遗憾给了我另一个重回波尔多的理由,这样想着想着自己也就释然了。游学最大的收获之一便是随遇而安。生活中没有什么是值得想不开的事情、也没有什么是值得过意不去的。不强求、不较劲、不攀附、是你的还是你的,不是你的怎么挣扎都是徒劳(哲学家晴格格又上线了)。

During my visit, I saw Professor Kees van Leeuwen’s photo, one of the faculty who taught us the auditing at Bordeaux Science Agro. I felt extra happiness and pride as a Vinifera student. As the head of Viticulture and Enology department, before joining Bordeaux Science Agro, Professor Kees van Leeuwen was the vineyard manager of Château Cheval Blanc, and is still a consultant of the Château today. It’s great to see the scholars who contributed to the wine industry are also passing their knowledge to students from all over the world. On a side note to this, due to this close relationship to the Professor, the most wonderful visit of that year would have been to the Château Cheval Blanc, which I missed by accident. This regret has given me another reason to return to Bordeaux, and I feel relief by this thought. One of the greatest gains of studying abroad is to accept whatever life brings along the way. Nothing in life is worth feeling sorry for. Don’t insist, don’t compete, don’t cling. Yours will be yours, and the rest is all in vain.

Kees van Leeuwen教授 / Professor Kees van Leeuwen

参观的最后一站是在顶层、可以凭参观门票点一杯葡萄酒。可以选的类别相当之多,也非常欣慰地看到了酒群中脱颖而出、映入眼帘的中国葡萄酒。并非是民族情结在作祟,更多是一种“老乡见老乡,两眼泪汪汪”的亲切感。在俯览波尔多风景时享用自己甄选的佳酿、是法式浪漫的葡萄酒博物馆参观的尾声。

The last stop of the tour was the top floor. You can order a glass of wine with the entry ticket. There are quite a lot of categories to choose from, and I was very pleased to see Chinese wines that stood out from the crowd. It’s not the nationalism talking, it’s more like the Chinese saying describes “fellow villagers see fellow villagers with tears in their eyes”.

And so, enjoying my wine order while overlooking Bordeaux from the top floor was definitely the French romantic ending to the wine museum visit.

波尔多大剧院 / Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux Photo by Clovis WOODon Unsplash

葡萄酒职业生涯,还会再次和波尔多相聚。直到那时,祝葡萄酒之城和这里的朋友们一切安好!

In my wine career, I will meet Bordeaux again. Until then, I wish this wine city and its friends all the best!

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