Vinifera欧盟葡萄酒硕士乌迪内-维罗纳-帕多瓦小分队 – 普利亚游学记 1 Vinifera EuroMaster Udine-Verona-Padova Consortium – Puglia study trip: Part 1

眼睛累了不想看屏幕?在路上不方便阅读?您可以来听作者们为您朗读的这个博客喔!Don’t feel like reading? You don’t have to! Tune in to listen to our authors read you this blog.

蒙特堡 / Castel del Monte
Photo Credit: Pixabay

中文原声 – Chinese by 晴格格

英文原声 – English by Isabell

我的普利亚情节:缘起于近3年前的这次游学。

My love story with Puglia started when I went there on a study trip about 3 years ago.

“天堂小镇”Alberobello,普利亚 / The “Paradise Town”- Alberobello, Puglia

喜欢、意大利南方更慢的生活节奏、更暖的人心;喜欢、每个气候宜人的傍晚都会拿着小板凳到街上找街坊聊天的普利亚人、记忆中儿时村庄里的淳朴氛围不过如此;喜欢、走走就到的了的海边、拂面的海风拨去本就不应该有的愁容。喜欢、晚上吃完晚餐后三五好友相约一起散个步,如一道同行的、我的同窗好友Nikki强调的说:passagiata,就是意式慢生活的一种最好表达;也喜欢、美味新鲜的食物及格外低廉的物价。虽然,据说这里工作格外难找、然而,不得不说这里才更有生活最原本的样子;这里有着一个自由职业者(比如作家、博主等)向往的诗和远方。

I like the slower pace of life and the warmer hearts of southern Italy. Every evening when the weather is pleasant, people will bring their chairs into the street to chat with their neighbours, this atmosphere reminds me of simple and genuine village life, much like the village I grew up in. The Puglian seaside is in walking distance, and the sea breeze can make any hints of anxiety simply disappear. After dinner one evening, a couple of my friends met me for a walk. As my dear friend and study trip buddy Nikki emphasised, the “passagiata”, is the best expression of Italian slow life. What’s more, the food here is fresh and delicious, and surprisingly, it can be found at relatively low prices. Although it is reportedly extremely difficult to land a job here, it has to be said that the lifestyle here is more original and healthier. I cannot help but think that it would be a dream to live here as a freelancer (working as a writer or blogger, etc.).

普利亚的海边 / The Puglian Seaside
(Location: Faraglioni di Torre Sant’Andrea, Melendugno, Puglia, Italy)
Photo by Massimo Virgilio on Unsplash

选择来到意大利求学和工作的初衷,除了这里自2015年以来就名列世界第一的葡萄酒产量、更重要的是对生活方式的选择。在这里,我寻觅到了工作与生活的平衡。放弃所谓的“完美主义”工作狂的观念、找到生活的真谛。这里满足了我对阳光、美食和人与人之间的近距离最原始的渴望。生命是一场旅行、而我的脚步、到达了这里、便不想离开。

意式慢生活 / The Slow Life in Italy
该图片由Дарья Яковлева在Pixabay上发布

The initial intention behind my decision to study and work in Italy was not only having the choice to experience the world’s largest wine producing country since 2015, but more importantly, it was the lifestyle that drew me in. In Italy I found a balance between work and life. It is a place that makes you want to give up the so-called “perfectionist”, workaholic mindset and find the true meaning of life. That place satisfied my most primitive desires for sunshine, delicious food and closer relationships with others. Life is a journey, and when my feet led me there, I simply did not want to leave.

巴尔多山峰俯览加尔达湖 / Aerial View of Lake Garda from the top of Monte Baldo
Photo by Gagan Josan on Unsplash

蒙特堡(Castel del Monte)

刚开始阅读日程表的时候、才疏学浅的我还以为是去参观一家名为“Castel del Monte”的酒庄。后来我们真的是去参观了个城堡!话说回来,探索一个产区背后富饶的文化底蕴、是真正了解这个产区的基石。建立在海拔530米的山丘上,这座八边形的城堡,由神圣罗马帝国皇帝腓德烈二世(Frederick II)于1229-1249年间建造。被《意大利科学、文学与艺术百科全书》描述为“腓德烈二世建立的最迷人的城堡”,并在1996年被列入世界文化遗产名录。这个出现在意大利铸造的一分欧元硬币上的图案是普利亚、乃至意大利南部的标志性建筑。

When I first started reading the program schedule for the trip, instinctively I assumed it was to visit a winery called “Castel del Monte”. Later what we actually ended up visiting was a real castle! In fact, exploring the rich cultural background behind the Castel del Monte production area provided a glimpse into this regions foundations, it was a way to truly understand this wine producing area and the people. The castle is found on a hill, 540 meters above sea level, this octagonal structure was built by the Roman Emperor Frederick II from 1229 to 1249. It is described by the Encyclopedia Italiana as “the most fascinating castle ever built by Frederick II”, it was included in the UNESCO world cultural heritage list in 1996 and you can find the image of it on the Italian one cent coin, cast to commemorate a landmark building, in Puglia as well as for the whole of southern Italy.

蒙特堡 / Castel del Monte
Photo by Giulia Gasperini on Unsplash

Castel del Monte DOC

目前,在普利亚(Puglia)大区一共有4个DOCG保证法定产区命名,其中3个名字中都有蒙特堡。这3个DOCG分别是:Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG、Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG 和 Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG。与此同时蒙特堡本身还有一个范围更广的法定产区酒种,即Castel del Monte DOC。虽说范围更广,仅在Barletta-Andria-Trani省和大城市Bari允许生产Castel del Monte DOC葡萄酒。

At present, there are 4 DOCGs – Guaranteed Designation of Origin – (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) in the Puglia region, of which, 3 have “Castel del Monte” in their names. The names of the three DOCGs are: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserve DOCG and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG. At the same time, Castel del Monte itself has a wider range of legal wine producing areas, namely Castel del Monte DOC. That being said, the production of the DOC Castel del Monte wines is only allowed in the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani and in the metropolitan city of Bari.

Castel Del Monte DOC 产区地图 / Map of Castel Del Monte DOC
Photo Credit: Quattrocalici

意大利唯一的桃红酒保证法定产区命名:Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG

The only DOCG dedicated to rosé wine: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG

黑博比诺(Bombino Nero)葡萄几乎只分布在Castel del Monte DOC法定产区,当地的酒农采用Alberello头部整形灌木栽培来种植黑博比诺。黑博比诺葡萄是意大利南部采收季最晚的葡萄之一,通常在九月末十月初被采摘。然而同一串葡萄上的成熟度仍然不均衡,一些没有完全成熟的果粒含有较高的酸度。加上果皮较薄且脆弱特性,使得黑博比诺葡萄特别适合酿造清新、柔和、颜色鲜艳的桃红:细腻,有愉悦的花香及柑橘的微妙香气,有良好的酸度和矿物气息。因为这类桃红葡萄酒非常好地展现了当地风土,Castel del Monte Bombino Nero在2011年升级为DOCG保证法定产区,成为了目前意大利唯一的桃红酒保证法定产区命名。

Bombino Nero grapes are almost exclusively grown in Castel del Monte DOC’s legal production areas, and local wine growers use Alberello’s head training bush-vines to grow Bombino Nero. Bombino Nero grapes are some of the last to ripen in southern Italy, it is usually picked at the end of September and the beginning of October. However, the maturity of each bunch of grapes is normally still uneven, and some of the berries that are not fully ripe contain higher acidity levels; the berry skins are also relatively thin and delicate. The variety’s principal current use is as a colour-enhancer for Rosato (rosé) wines. Bombino Nero grapes bleed their colour into the wine very quickly, before the bitter tannins, which makes it especially suitable for making fresh, soft and well-coloured rosé: it has a delicate and pleasant fragrance of flowers and citrus fruit, good acidity and mineral flavours. Because this kind of rosé displays the local terroir amazingly well, Castel del Monte Bombino Nero was upgraded to a DOCG in 2011, becoming the only DOCG for Rosé in Italy so far.

意大利唯一的桃红DOCG / The only Rosato DOCG in Italy
该图片由Gábor AdonyiPixabay上发布 

Alberello

我们乘坐的车在半途出现故障,刚好停在了葡萄园的路边 (这个概率还是相当高的,普利亚的葡萄园无处不在)。我们一起下车去和教授们学习了Alberello的整形方式。最早的记录起源于希腊。2014年的潘泰莱里亚(Pantelleria)“vite ad alberello” (head-trained bush vines) 头部整形灌木种植法被列为UNESCO联合国教科文组织的非物质文化遗产名录。这种整形方式使得葡萄藤离地面很近、且具有非常好的保水能力。

Alberello整形方式 / Alberrello:head-trained bush vines

On one of the outings throughout our stay in Puglia, our vehicle broke down, we happened to stop at the side of a vineyard (The chances of this happening was quite high, since vineyard is literally everywhere). We got off the bus together to learn about the Alberello training system, a system that possibly found its earliest application in Greece. In 2014, the Pantelleria “Vite ad Alberrello” (head-trained bush vines) training system was included to the list of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage practices. The bush is trained to be very close to the ground and has great water holding capacity. 

在葡萄园里行走的每一步、都是最好的学习方式。和葡萄园管理者一道去了解葡萄园里的故事。Peterlunger教授为我们三个意大利语还在学习中的外国学生做翻译。一个酒庄庄主讲述到他会在清晨4点钟起床、到葡萄园里散步、聆听葡萄园的声音、抚摸葡萄的叶片。刚不禁要笑出声来、意识到他不是在开玩笑、赶紧摆出认真脸。他说:“葡萄园最好的养料、便是酿酒师的脚印”。(这句台词在电影《酒业风云》中也有听到过)。而就是在这一刻、在充沛的普利亚阳光下、我突然间真正懂得了这句话的含义。所有优质葡萄酒的酿造、都离不来每一个环节的精心照料。在酒窖里放音乐等一样、都是为孕育有生命液体做出的格外付出。好比创作一篇精彩的博客、是需要字斟句酌、反复推敲的。直到你不愿意再修改任何一个措辞、一个标点。自己是自己作品的第一个读者、酿酒师也是自己酿造葡萄酒的第一个品尝的人。虽然不一定能立马获得公众认可。然而、会到一个程度,自己会感觉尽全力而无憾。

和葡萄园管理者一道在学习栽培技术 / The Vintner is explaining its viticulture practice
右一:Peterlunger教授 / Professor Peterlunger

Walking in the vineyard is the best way to learn about it; chatting with the vintner to learn the stories of the vineyard. Our professor, Proff. Peterlunger acted as a translator for us three foreign students (myself and my companions, Nikki and Nancy) since we were still learning Italian. The winery owner told me that he would get up at 4 o’clock in the morning to go for a walk in the vineyard, listen to the voice of the vines and to touch the grape leaves. I just couldn’t help laughing out loud. Realising that he was not joking, I quickly put on a serious face, he then continued by saying, ”The best nourishment for vineyards is the footprints of winemakers”.  (Fun Fact: This line was also included in the wine movie “Bottle Shock”).  

It was at this moment, under the abundant sunshine in Puglia, that I suddenly fully understood the meaning of this sentence. The crafting of all high-quality wines cannot be separated from the meticulous care that goes into it along the way. To provide another illustration of this notion; playing music in the wine cellar is reflection of care that translates into the final product, it is that extra effort put in that brings this living drink into its best possible expression. The same analogy can be used for any profession; a blogger for example, when creating a wonderful blog, must carefully consider the words and deliberate repeatedly. This process continues until you don’t want to change even one single word or any punctuation. The blogger is the first to read his/her own work and the winemaker is also the first person to taste his/her own wine. Although the work might not necessarily be recognised by the public, it does not matter because the author (in any profession) will know that they did their best, and have no regrets.

深入了解酒窖 / Deep Dive into the Cellar

此次游学参观的酒庄名录、之后会分别为每个酒庄撰写博客:

The list of wineries visited during this study tour, and I will write a separate blog as part of the “Puglia series” for each of the wineries below:

  • Torre Vento
  • Torrerivera
  • Produttori di Manduria
  • Antinori – TORMARESCA
  • Amastuola
  • Museo della Civiltà del Vino Primitivo
  • Felline
  • Gianfranco Fino
和庄主一起学习酒庄土壤 / A Soil Study with the Winery Owner

这次旅程,我们也花时间在别致的阿尔贝罗贝洛(Alberobello),被称为“天堂小镇”的白色和灰色相间世界里散散步。吃过晚饭后我们会一起去海边看星星。最好的状态、不是一味地向前,而是欣享生命的每一个瞬间。永远要记得,自己是有多幸运、幸运的可以成为Vinifera欧盟葡萄酒硕士项目的学生。感恩在心、要在葡萄酒行业以自己的方式作出贡献、才能对得起当年教授们在面试时看到的潜力。不忘初心、方得始终。

During this trip, we also spent time walking in the chic white & grey world of Alberobello, known as “Paradise Town.” After dinner, the students accompanied the knowledgeable and approachable professors’ Peterlunger and Celotti to the seaside to watch the stars. As we gazed, I understood that the best state of being is not to move forward blindly, but instead, to enjoy every moment of life. I will always remember how lucky I am to have been a Vinifera student. Gratitude is a state of mind and this is how I will contribute to the wine industry in my own way, gradually living up to the potential that professors saw in me during my entrance interview. “Do not forget your initiative mind, so as to achieve your final goal”.

“天堂小镇”的时光 / Walking through the Alberobello

Vinifera P9 学生,

杜小雯

Vinifera P9 student,

羲和葡萄酒传媒 – 晴格格

感恩 / Being Grateful

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