“Tedeschi风格”,瓦波利切拉山坡、好朝向葡萄园出产的佳酿 The “Tedeschi Style”, crafting wines on the good side of a Valpolicella hill

晴格格 & Isabell

眼睛累了不想看屏幕?在路上不方便阅读?您可以来听作者们为您朗读的这个博客喔!Don’t feel like reading? You don’t have to! Tune in to listen to our authors read you this blog.

Chinese – 中文原声 – 晴格格

English – 英文原声 – Isabell

Lorenzo Tedeschi和他的妻子在酒窖 / Lorenzo Tedeschi and his wife in the cellar

这是在刚参加工作不久,和老板及几位同事一道参观了这家酒庄。周六还马不停蹄工作的酒庄庄主Maria Sabrina Tedeschi特地开车到主干路上来迎接我们,以免我们在乡间小路上迷路。我非常欣赏这个热情豪爽、走路带风(a.k.a. 执行力超强)的酒庄庄主。的确,一个人是否热爱他/她的工作,从他/她的言谈举止就可见一斑。正如她自己讲述的、她从早到晚不知疲倦的在酒庄工作。“Chi fa da sé, fa per tre”这句意大利语的意思是“为自己工作的人相当于在做三份工”。当我们在打造属于自己品牌时,不会计较付出且乐在其中。家族使命感让这一代的酒庄庄主的姐弟们联手、并将父辈的为瓦波利切拉产区声誉的作出的巨大付出和家族酿酒热情一道传承下去。

Two years ago when I had just started my career, I visited Tedeschi winery with my boss and several colleagues. Maria Sabrina Tedeschi, the owner of the winery who works non-stop on Saturdays, drove to the main road to welcome us so that we wouldn’t get lost on the countryside road. I greatly appreciated this warm and generous winery owner who has strong execution power. Indeed, whether a person loves their work or not can be easily detected from their speech and behaviour. As she described, she worked tirelessly at the winery from morning till night. The Italian expression “Chi fa da sé, fa per tre”, this means “people who work for themselves work the equivalent of three people”. When building your own brand, you don’t calculate the workload and thus, enjoy it to the maximum extent. The Tedeschi sense of family mission enables the brother and sisters of this generation to join hands and create something to pass onto future generations, moreover, the great efforts made by these families strengthens the reputation of the Valpolicella region and reinforces this family’s strong passion for winemaking.

Tedeschi酒庄现任庄主三姐弟 / the 3 Tedeschi siblings, this generation of vintners in the vineyard.

这是一次很全方位的酒庄参观:我们一起去爬上很陡峭的山坡,观察了生长着用来酿造阿玛罗尼葡萄树的葡萄园。在冬日的寒风里瑟瑟发抖地感知着坡地葡萄园的艰辛及酒庄为酿造高品质葡萄酒的坚持。坡地葡萄园的成本要比平地高许多,然而,这里出产葡萄能够酿造出风味更加复杂、馥郁的葡萄酒。因为这里的气候、土壤和最明显的影响因素:昼夜温差。这些山坡葡萄园能够给予葡萄酒的复杂度值得所有的耕作这片葡萄园的艰辛。Tedeschi酒庄的坚持只用在山坡葡萄园上出产的葡萄来酿造阿玛罗尼葡萄酒。当我们坚信我们做一件事情的意义,也会在执行过程中发现自己生命的意义、从而成为一个更好的人。

This is a deep-dive into the visit I made to the winery: first we climbed the steep hillside together and observed the vineyards where Amarone grapes are grown. Trembling in the cold winter wind, we felt the hardships of sloping vineyards and the persistent efforts made by the winery for their production of high-quality wines. The cost of vineyards on sloping land is much higher than those cultivated on flat land, however, the grapes produced here can produce wines with more complex and rich flavours. Because of the climate, soil and the most obvious influencing factor: the temperature difference between day and night, these hillside vineyards can give wine complexity and this vineyard is worth all the hardships of farming. The Tedeschi winery insists on producing its Amarone wine only from grapes grown on these hillside vineyards -when one firmly believe in the meaning of doing something, one will also find the meaning of life in the process of implementation, thus, becoming a better person- a true feat of accomplishment.

Tedeschi酒庄名为“La Fabriseria”的葡萄园 / “La Fabriseria” the Tedeschi Winery’s vineyard

Maria引领我们从入门款的清爽红葡萄酒、Classico、Ripasso,、Amarone等等一路品尝下来。在这次庄主引导品鉴中,给我印象最深刻的是Maria回忆道2017年发酵的情形:因为2017年天气比较热,葡萄积累了非常多的糖分,发酵罐中的酒精度在一直飙升。有趣的是,酿酒师意识到17度的酒精并不会完全杀死全部酵母。因为在17酒精度下发酵罐中仍可以观察到发酵的足迹。Maria曾在学校做酿酒工艺的老师。她说道:你们书本上所学到的酵母菌不会在17度酒精度的环境下生存、这个理论在实践中被打破了。这就是“实践出真知”的完美例子吧。

Maria led us through a tasting, all the way from the entry-level fresh red, Classico, to the Ripasso and then to the Amarone, and so on. What impressed me most in this guided tasting was Maria’s recollection of the fermentation process carried out in 2017 of the previous year. She explained that the weather was relatively hot in 2017, grapes accumulated a lot of sugar, and the alcohol content in the fermentation tank had soared. Interestingly, the winemaker realised that 17 degrees of alcohol would not kill all the yeast completely, this is because the footprint of fermentation can still be observed under 17 degrees of alcohol. Maria Sabrina used to be an Enology teacher at school, she went on to explain that; you learn from books that yeast will not survive in a 17-degree alcohol environment, but this theory has been proven wrong in practice. This is a perfect example of “real knowledge comes with practice”.

Tedeschi的丰收时节 / Harvest Time at the Tedeschi winery

Tedeschi酒庄始建于1630年。她的爷爷,有个葡萄酒酒吧(意大利语:Osteria),主要向本地人销售产自瓦波利切拉的葡萄酒。Sabrina Tedeschi的父亲 Lorenzo Tedeschi 在60年代,改变酒庄的葡萄酒酿造哲学、也是“Tedeschi风格”形成的伊始。1918年,将从Monte Olmi葡萄园出产的葡萄单独酿造,由此成为瓦波利切拉最先引入Cru概念的几个酒庄之一。并于1946年起将葡萄园的名称写在酒标上。Monte Olmi也是因此成为酒庄一直以来的旗舰酒款。也是从这个时期开始,Tedeschi酒庄开始向世界各地出口葡萄酒。直至今日、Tedeschi仍是家庭酒庄。弟弟Riccardo Tedeschi是酿酒师,Sabrina和Riccardo Tedeschi一起负责国际市场,姐姐Antonietta Tedeschi则负责意大利国内市场。新一代的Tedeschi庄主们,除了坚持老一辈的传统,同时注重尝试新科技、继续提升酿造葡萄酒的品质。

The Tedeschi winery was founded in 1630. Maria Sabrina’s grandfather, who also owned a wine bar (Osteria), mainly sold wines from the Valpolicella to the locals. It was Lorenzo Tedeschi, Maria Sabrina’s father, who changed the philosophy of this winery in the 1960s; moreover, this is also the beginning of the formation of the “Tedeschi style”. In 1918, grapes from their Monte Olmi vineyards were independently crafted, thus, Tedeschi became one of the first wineries in Valpolicella to introduce the “Cru” concept. This has been written on their wine label since 1946. Monte Olmi wine became the winery’s flagship product; it was also during this period that Tedeschi began exporting wine to all parts of the world. Fast-forward to present day, Tedeschi is still a family winery. Maria Sabrina’s brother, Riccardo Tedeschi is the winemaker, Maria Sabrina and Riccardo are in charge of the international market, while their sister Antonietta is in charge of the Italian domestic market. The new generation of Tedeschi owners not only adhere to the tradition of the older generations, but also implement new technologies in order to continue to improve the quality of their wines.

Tedeschi的姐妹俩:Sabrina和 Antonietta/ Sabrina and her sister Antonietta Tedeschi

Tedeschi酒庄一直有着对自己所在瓦波利切拉这片土地的热爱。在瓦波利切拉的名声不是特别好的时候,有些进口商建议Lorenzo Tedeschi先生将瓦波利切拉的产地信息从自己的酒标上拿下。他坚决没有同意:“因为这是我们的葡萄园坐落的地方、是我们的身份之一”。直到如今,当Sabrina在采访中被问到“阿玛罗尼热潮”中该如何维持“阿玛罗尼”的声誉时,她首先肯定了产量大幅度提升的事实:(1990年,阿玛罗尼的产量是两百万瓶;而现今阿玛罗尼的产量是1.6到1.9千万瓶),她认为最重要的是要提高葡萄酒的品质。正如Tedeschi网站上真诚的自我陈述:“我们坚信,我们的每一款葡萄酒都必须诞生于我们的风土和历史。我们的葡萄酒与众不同的特点是400年来我们在瓦波利切拉葡萄园的热情和研究的结果”。

The Tedeschi’s have always had a passion for the Valpolicella, the region where their winery is located. Once upon a time, when Valpolicella’s reputation was going through hard times, some importers suggested that Lorenzo Tedeschi should remove the Valpolicella origin information from his label. Lorenzo firmly disagreed: “This is where our vineyard is located and it is part of our identity”. This is still the family’s mantra; in an interview, when Maria Sabrina was asked how to maintain the reputation of “Amarone” during this current “Amarone craze”, she firstly affirmed that production has been greatly increased: (in 1990, the production of Amarone was 2 million bottles; Now Amarone’s production is between 16 and 19 million bottles), then she stated her belief that the most important thing is to maintain and keep improving the quality of Amarone. As Tedeschi sincerely stated on its website: “We are convinced that each of our wines has to be born out of our territory and history. The distinctive character of our wines is the result of 400 years of intense passion and research in our vineyards in the Valpolicella”.

酒庄现任酿酒师:Riccardo Tedeschi / Tedeschi’s current winemaker: Riccardo Tedeschi

Sabrina Tedeschi有2个女儿,家族的下一代现在共计有7个孩子。她相信下一代要接受良好的教育、同时一定要背井离乡去其他产区积累经验、然后期待有酿酒热情的孩子会回到这边土地上。同这一代的姐弟三人一样,将家族血液里的酿酒传统传承下去。Sabrina Tedeschi自己曾在勃艮第Erasmus学习过6个月,她十分肯定国外留学经历在一生中的积极影响。

Sabrina Tedeschi has two daughters, but between Maria Sabrina and her siblings, there are seven children in this next generation. Maria Sabrina believes that the next generation must receive a good education, and at the same time, they must leave the territory to accumulate experience in other production areas; the hope is that after this experience,  the children (who are enthusiastic about winemaking) will return home. Like the three siblings of the current generation, hopefully, the winemaking tradition remains in the blood so that the family business can be successfully passed on. When Maria Sabrina Tedeschi was younger, she studied in Burgundy for 6 months as an Erasmus student, thus, she believes in the positive influence of studying abroad.

俯览Tedeschi的葡萄园 / The Aerial View of Tedeschi’s Vineyard

在Tedeschi的社交网络上,Sabrina Tedeschi写到“Cibo e vino: la miglior ricetta della vita.”。中文的意思是“美食与葡萄酒是生命的良方”。人生在世,唯美食美酒不可辜负。

On the Tedeschi’s social network, Maria Sabrina Tedeschi wrote “Cibo e vino: la miglior ricetta della vita”. It means “Food and wine: the best recipe for life!”. I second this sentiment, in life, we must live up to the beauty held by food and wine.

快乐的Tedeschi姐弟们 / Happy Tedeschi Siblings

我们以这首来自Tedeschi家族的小诗来作为这篇博客的结尾。

We conclude this blog with this little poem from the Tedeschi family.

Tedeschi的下一代在坡地葡萄园 / The next generation of the Tedeschi family at the vineyard’s slope

🇮🇹 “Siamo più che mai convinti,

Che ogni nostro vino non debba essere solo buono ma vero, 

Con un carattere distintivo,

Frutto della nostra storia,

Figlio della nostra terra,

Risultato di una passione di famiglia. ”

Famiglia Tedeschi

————————————————————

🇨🇳 “我们坚信我们的每一款葡萄酒,

不仅要美味,还要真实,

有着源自我们历史的鲜明特色,

是我们土地的孩子,

源于我们家族的激情。”

Tedeschi家族

—————————————————————

🇬🇧 “We firmly believe that each of our wines,

Must not just be good, but also true,

With a distinctive character derived from our history,

A child of our land,

Springing from the passion of our family.”

Tedeschi Family

Tedeschi酿酒家族 / The Tedeschi Winemaking Family

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