当百年张裕遇上奥地利摩塞尔酿酒家族? What happens when China’s oldest wine company, Changyu, meets Austrian winemaking family Lenz Moser?

晴格格 & Isabell

眼睛累了不想看屏幕?在路上不方便阅读?您可以来听作者们为您朗读的这个博客喔!Don’t feel like reading? You don’t have to! Tune in to listen to our authors read you this blog.

Chinese 中文原声 晴格格

English 英文原声 Isabell

2017年,刚毕业的我怀着初生牛犊的憧憬开始四处寻找工作。当在母校西农葡萄酒学院的网站上看到张裕招聘海外留学背景的助理酿酒师的消息,便毫不犹豫地递上简历。和罗斯·玛丽亚·摩塞尔先生的第一次会面就是在这一次被安排在意大利时间半夜4点钟的远程面试。虽然面试未果(我还是很感动半夜爬起来灌咖啡的自己),这次谈话让我对摩塞尔先生的谦逊幽默和酿酒热情有了很深的印象。在维罗纳的wine2wine 2019上终于见到真身,我对这个执著要将中国葡萄酒绘上世界版图的奥地利酿酒师又增添了几分仰慕之情。

In 2017, I had just graduated and started looking for a job, full of hope, just like a newborn calf. I noticed that my alma mater, the College of Enology and Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University, through its online webpage, announced that Changyu was looking for an assistant winemaker with overseas study background experience, I did not hesitate to send in my resume. My first meeting with Lenz Maria Moser was scheduled as a remote interview, 4: 00 a.m. Italy time. Although the interview did not go as I had hoped (I am still proud of myself getting up in the middle of the night to show up for opportunities), I was deeply impressed by Lenz Maria Moser’s good sense of humour and passion for winemaking. Fast-forward to present day, I was finally able to meet the man in person at wine2wine 2019, my admiration for this winemaker grew, he showed himself to be an individual of great determination in his mission to bring Chinese wine to the world.

Lenz M. Moser在张裕摩泽尔十五世酒庄 / Lenz M. Moser at Château Changyu Moser XV

烟台张裕公司,其前身是“张裕酿酒公司”。1892年,由我国近代著名爱国华侨实业家张弼士投资 300 万两白银创办,是中国第一家工业化酿造葡萄酒的企业。张裕在全国布局了 20 余万亩优质葡萄种植基地,在中国6大优质产区分别建设了酒庄:山东烟台的卡斯特酒庄、辽宁本溪的黄金冰谷冰酒酒庄、北京密云的爱斐堡国际酒庄、陕西咸阳的瑞那城堡酒庄、宁夏银川的摩塞尔十五世酒庄和新疆石河子的巴保男爵酒庄。两家正在建设中的酒庄:张裕定洛特葡萄酒酒庄和可雅白兰地酒庄; 同时在法国、西班牙、智利、澳大利亚等地收购了多家企业。今天我们把目光聚焦到张裕摩塞尔十五世酒庄,张裕公司旗下的精品酒庄之一。

Changyu Pioneer Company, formerly known as the “Changyu Winemaking Company”, was founded in 1892 by Bishi Zhang, a famous patriotic overseas Chinese industrialist, his contribution helped shape modern China. He invested 3 million taels of silver, creating the first industrial winemaking enterprise in China; the operation laid out more than 200,000 mu (approximately 80,000 hectare) of high-quality vineyards throughout the country, and has built wineries in six high-quality production areas in China: Château Changyu-Castel in Yantai, Château Changyu AFIP Global in Beijing, Château Changyu Golden Ice Wine Valley in Liaoning, Château Changyu Moser XV in Ningxia and Château Changyu Barbon Balboa in Xinjiang; Besides these, the Château Tinlot and Château Koyac Brandy are still under construction; At the same time, this enterprise has acquired many wineries in France, Spain, Chile, Australia and other places. Today we are focusing on Changyu Mosel XV winery, one of the finest wineries owned by the Changyu company.

宁夏银川的摩塞尔十五世酒庄 / Château Changyu Moser XV in Yinchuan, Ningxia, China

酒庄的首席酿酒师摩塞尔先生是奥地利著名的酿酒世家罗斯·摩塞尔(Lenz Moser)的第五代、也是摩塞尔家族第十五世直系传人。显而易见、张裕摩塞尔十五世酒庄名称的由此而来。其祖父是有传奇色彩的Lorenz摩塞尔三世博士。他在1905年发明了以其名字命名的名为“Lenz Moser Hocherziehung”的罗斯·摩塞尔奥地利葡萄园的现代棚架管理系统。在欧洲掀起了一场葡萄园的革命,这是人类首次让葡萄树“站起来”生长,大大提高了酿酒葡萄的品质。而其著作《葡萄种植》(WeinbauEinmal Anders)更被翻译为 17 种外国语言出版,被誉为“葡萄栽培的圣经”。对葡萄种植业有巨大的影响力。有着商业和葡萄酒酿造学的双学位的摩塞尔先生的葡萄酒教育始于儿时从祖父那里学到关于葡萄园的一切。担任奥地利名庄罗斯·摩塞尔酒庄的总经理一职有10年。1997年他受聘出任罗伯特·蒙大维酒庄欧洲总经理,供职9年直至品牌被美国三大葡萄酒公司之一星座品牌公司(Constellation Brands)收购。

The winery’s chief winemaker is Lenz M. Moser, the fifth generation in the Austrian Lenz Moser winemaking family and 15th with direct lineage in the Moser family. Obviously, the name of Château Changyu Mosel XV comes from this. His grandfather was the legendary Professor Dr. Lorenz Moser III., he invented the modern trellis management system for vineyards in 1905. This new system launched a “revolution” in European vineyards. This is the first time that human beings made vines “stand up” to grow, greatly improving the quality of wine grapes. His book Weinbau Einmal Anders has been translated into 17 foreign languages and has been hailed as “the Bible of Grape Cultivation”; having had great influence on grape planting. Lenz M. Moser, who has a dual degree in Business and Enology believes his real education started while wandering around the vineyards with his grandfather when he was a kid. He has been the general manager of Austria’s pre-eminent wine producer Lenz Moser Winery for 10 years. In 1997, he was employed as the European General Manager of Robert Mondavi Winery, working there for 9 years until the brand was acquired by Constellation Brands, one of the three major wine companies in the United States.

Lenz Moser葡萄藤架管理系统 / Lenz Moser Hocherziehung
张裕摩泽尔十五世酒庄榨期 / Harvest time at Château Changyu Moser XV

“好的葡萄酒是种出来的”,这里的葡萄栽培是有态度的!所谓“张裕摩泽尔葡萄种植的20厘米黄金法则”,指在摩塞尔先生看来,一棵葡萄树上只有特定高度上下 10 厘米以内的葡萄品质最好,而为了这 20 厘米内的葡萄得到足够养分,葡萄树上其他高度的果实刚一结籽就会被剪掉。摩塞尔先生根据葡萄的种植密度、温度和光照的角度等因素,将张裕摩泽尔的葡萄结果部位严格控制在60—80厘米之间,以获得品质均一、风味上乘的葡萄原料。毋庸置疑,这一做法会令葡萄产量大大降低。然而从这样精细的葡萄园管理,可以看出其酿造优质葡萄酒的决心。

It’s almost a cliché to say that great wine is made in the vineyard, however it’s the truth. The wine growing here in Changyu Mosel is executing this truth with conviction. The so-called “Changyu Mosel XV’s 20 cm Golden Rule for Vine Trellising” refers to Lenz Maria Moser’s view that grapes within 10 cm above and below a certain height on a vine, are of the best quality, and in order to obtain sufficient nutrients for the grapes within 20 cm, the fruits of other heights on the vine will be cut off as soon as they bear seeds. Lenz Maria Moser strictly controls the grape maturation part of the process, ensuring that it remains between 60-80cm, according to the planting density, temperature and light angle of grapes, so as to obtain raw grape materials with uniform quality and excellent flavour.  There is no doubt that this practice greatly reduces grape production, but, employing such strict control shows that Mosel has high standards when it comes to his requirements for wine making.

张裕摩泽尔十五世酒庄的葡萄原料 / Grapes at Château Changyu Moser XV

张裕摩塞尔十五世酒庄还酿造出了中国的第一款黑中白(Blanc de Noir)葡萄酒、即由红色葡萄酿造的白葡萄酒。这款葡萄酒由赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)酿造,仅经过10分钟非常短暂的浸渍、因而葡萄酒的色素没有被提取、因而酿造出白葡萄酒。来自宁夏的小果粒(提取物含量比欧洲的赤霞珠高25%)是葡萄酒的果味浓郁、有着柚子皮、热带水果和柑橘的气息。口腔中味道更加丰富、也进一步强化了这些气息。酿酒师摩塞尔先生描述到:“介于典型未经橡木陈酿的霞多丽(Chardonnay)来自活波的旧世界长相思(Sauvignon Blanc)。因为拥有赤霞珠的魂,这款酒有陈年潜质“。

Château Changyu Mosel XV crafted China’s first Blanc de Noir. These small Cabernet Sauvignon berries from the Ningxia region give a unique concentration of fruit flavours: grapefruit peel, citrus and exotic fruit aromas. On the palate, a range of new flavours echo the aromatic experience on the nose. As described by the winemaker, Lenz M. Moser, “the profile of this unique wine sits between a typical unoaked Chardonnay and a racy Sauvignon Blanc from the Old World. This wine has the soul of a Cabernet Sauvignon, thus has the potential for ageing.”

中国第一款黑中白 / China’s first Blanc de Noir

2013年张裕摩塞尔十五世酒庄的葡萄酒首次在英国皇家酒商BBR(Berry Bros & Rudd)的专柜销售。据悉,BBR还为这座中国酒庄出产的干红葡萄酒开设了永久货架。现已成功进入欧洲25个国家的市场。

In 2013, the wines of Château Changyu Mosel XV were sold for the first time in the special counter of British royal winemaker BBR (Berry Bros & Rudd). It has been reported that BBR has also opened a permanent shelf spot for dry red wine produced by this Chinese winery.  It has now successfully entered the markets of 25 European countries.

摩泽尔先生腰间标志工作优先级的笔 / The Priority pens on Lenz M. Moser’s Waist

第8版的《世界葡萄酒地图》也将张裕摩塞尔十五世酒庄纳入其中。当百年张裕碰撞奥地利摩塞尔酿酒家族第十五世传人会产生怎样的火花?显然,我们还没有完整的答案。因为,将中国葡萄酒绘入世界版图的传奇仍在书写中!

The 8th edition of “The World Atlas of Wine” also includes Château Changyu Mosel XV. What happens when China’s oldest wine company Changyu meets Austrian winemaking family Lenz Moser? We don’t have the full answer yet obviously since the legend of putting Chinese wines on the world map is still being written!

张裕摩泽尔十五世酒庄首席酿酒师Lenz M. Moser 在酒窖 / Chief Winemaker Lenz M. Moser in the Cellar of Château Changyu Moser XV


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s