从森林小屋走向世界舞台 From Ca’ del Bosco to the World Stage

晴格格 & Isabell

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Chinese Audio Blog 中文原声 晴格格

English Audio Blog 英文原声 Isabell

Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige

       Franciacorta名字源自“Franzacurta”。由拉丁语franchae curtes衍生而来,意为“免税区”。最早伴随被驱逐出境的查理大帝、来到伦巴第大区的是法国本笃教会的僧侣,他们在这里种植葡萄。他们的辛勤地劳作将沼泽地变为耕田,作为交换,Brescia当局为其减免了税收。“免税区”这名字并没有想象中的诗意洋气,然而却承载了这片土地的一段历史。Franciacorta位于Garda湖和Como湖之间的一个更小的Iseo湖东北畔的小山丘之上。Franciacorta是意大利第一个被定义为只能用传统香槟法酿造的起泡葡萄酒,即二次发酵是在葡萄酒瓶中进行的。尽管采用同样的酿造方式,Franciacorta并不想成为第二个香槟。Franciacorta有自己专门的杯子、每一个Franciacorta的酿造者都会告诉你请不要用香槟杯来饮用Franciacorta。Franciacorta同香槟一道,是欧盟法规里仅有的两个不需要注明自己是起泡葡萄酒的例外(为了帮助消费者识别起泡葡萄酒,所有含有气泡的葡萄酒在意大利需要标为Spumante, 在法国为Mousseux, 在德国是Sekt, 英国则是Sparking wine)。Franciacorta仅仅拥有50年的历史,却已然成为意大利顶级起泡的代言。早在1967年,Franciacorta就是率先获得D.O.C.身份的产区之一。并在1995年被给予D.O.C.G.的身份。而Ca’ del Bosco是铸就Franciacorta50年繁盛传奇的一股中坚力量。

Franciacorta’s name comes from “Franzacurta” which is derived from the Latin franchae curtes, it means “tax free zone”. The monks of the St. Benedict Church in France, were the first to come and grow grapes in Lombardy, having accompanied Charlemagne on an expedition. They turned the marshy area into workable farmland, and in exchange for this feat, Brescian authorities gave them tax exemption. The name does not have a poetic meaning, however, it records an important historical period in this territory. Franciacorta is located in Lombardy, in the hills immediately south-east, at the foot of Lake Iseo, between Garda Lake and Como Lake, it is the producer of Italy’s first sparkling wine, solely using the traditional Champagne method, i.e. secondary fermentation is carried out in-bottle. Franciacorta does not want to be thought of as a second Champagne however, despite using the same winemaking method, it even has its own special glass, and every Franciacorta maker will tell you not to drink their fizz with a champagne glass.  Franciacorta, together with Champagne, are two exceptions to the EU regulations in that they do not require these wines to identify themselves as sparkling on the label (normally, in order to help consumers identify sparkling wines, all carbonated wines need to be labeled as Spumante in Italy, Mousseux in France, Sekt in Germany and Sparking Wine in Britain). Franciacorta has become Italy’s most iconic Sparkling wine and it was one of the first regions to acquire D.O.C status as early as 1967; it was granted D.O.C.G status in 1995.  The Ca’ del Bosco winery is the backbone of Franciacorta, having forged a legend that has spanned over 50 prosperous years.

俯览Franciacorta / The Overview of Franciacorta 

Ca’ del Bosco, 意大利语的意思是“森林小屋”。Maurizio的父母居住在米兰,想要购买一件距离市区不远的乡间农场用来种植自己健康美味的食材。源于的母亲相中了这间森林小屋,他的父亲便买了下来。Ca’ del Bosco就是这间小屋注册的名字。从最初无水无电的荒凉小屋到现今坐拥185公顷葡萄园的、精致华美的酒庄。Maurizio在16岁时同意大利葡萄酒生产商一起到法国勃艮第罗曼尼康帝酒庄和香槟产区参观,之后对葡萄酒产生了极为浓厚的兴趣。父亲感受到他真挚的热爱,鼓舞他遵循内心、建立酒庄。让他去犯错、去经历、去成长。

Ca’ del Bosco means “forest cottage” in Italian. Maurizio Zanella is the founder of Ca’ del Bosco and his story started when his parents, who originally lived in Milan, wanted to buy a farm house not far from the city to plant healthy and delicious ingredients for their cooking. Maurizio’s mother fell in love with the Ca’ del Bosco cottage at first sight, so his father bought it for her. Ca’ del Bosco is the registered name of this property in the commune. Originally this cottage was desolate, without running water or electricity, however, after considerable work, it has become a well-designed, modern winery with a functional cellar. Alongside it is the 185 hectare vineyard. Maurizio became extremely passionate about wine at the age of 16, after a study trip he took to France with Italian wine producers. The first winery he visited in his life was DRC (Domaine Romanée Conti), followed by a visit to Champagne. His father felt his genuine passion, he encouraged him to follow his heart and build a winery from scratch; let him make mistakes, experience and grow up.

Ca’ del Bosco, 顶级奢华Franciacorta  /  Ca’ del Bosco, the Iconic Franciacorta

  作为葡萄酒专业的出身,常常被问到你们酿酒时候会不会清洗葡萄原料。如果不洗的话有农药残留、树叶、泥渣和地里的昆虫都一起用来酿酒了吗?这是一个略有些尴尬的问题,因为一般来说,清洗葡萄原料这个技术是不存在的。因为后续的生产过程中会包括过下胶、过滤和除菌等各个环节来确保葡萄酒的干净卫生。然而并不是所有的酒庄都如此这般循规蹈矩。Ca’ del Bosco就是会清洗葡萄原料的酒庄:“berry spa”, 即葡萄水疗是这家酒庄非常引以为豪的技术。Maurizio记得祖母在他每当要吃水果的时候都会告诉他要先洗一洗才能食用。同时在酒庄申请有机认证的过程中也发现“波尔多液”等常用农药的铜残留物对葡萄酒发酵也有不利的影响。因而他们为葡萄原料设计了由三个沐浴缸组成的独特气泡束洗涤系统。葡萄经由人工采摘后,第一时间被分级和冷藏。随后,经过专业的人工筛选。每一葡萄果穗都会经历特殊的“果粒桑拿”,经过漩涡式浸渍、并干燥。然后再开始压榨。压榨的葡萄汁被分成三个批次,第一批用来做顶级的年份起泡酒,而第三批次则会卖到其他地方做副产品。

As a wine professional, I am often asked if the grapes are washed before the wine is made. If you don’t wash them, are there pesticide residues, leaves, mud and insects fermenting in the wine? This is a slightly awkward question, because generally speaking, the technology to wash the grapes does not exist. The subsequent production procedures will include filtration and sterilisation to ensure the cleanliness and hygiene of the wine. However, not all wineries follow the same rules. Ca’ del Bosco is a winery that washes its grapes in a: “berry spa”, which is a proudly patented technology in this winery. Maurizio remembers that his grandmother always told him to wash fruit before eating it.  Plus, when the winery was applying for its organic certification, research found that the copper residue of common pesticides such as “Bordeaux mixture” also has adverse effects on wine fermentation. Therefore, they designed a unique bubble washing system composed of a three-bath tank. Grapes are classified and refrigerated for the first time after being picked manually. Then, after manual selection, each cluster will go through a special “berry Jacuzzi” and undergo whirlpool immersion, thereafter, a drying system will dry the grapes up to 99.7%.  It is only at this point that the berries are pressed. The pressed grape juice is divided into three batches. The first batch is used to make top-grade sparkling wine, while the third batch will be sold to other places as by-products.

Video: Ca’del Bosco酿造法 / Ca’del Bosco Winemaking Method

       除酒泥是葡萄酒装瓶前的重要环节。酒泥(意大利语为la feccia)一般而言是浑浊和带有不良气味的。而洗过的葡萄酿造出的酒被证明出有着干净、散发优雅香气的酒泥,会为陈酿中的葡萄酒添加格外怡人的风味。因此Ca’del Bosco会选择保留酒泥。正如Maurizio Zanella所说 “遵循传统并不意味着坚持对过往的盲目崇拜,而是将创新与自然及品质相结合”。最初很多人会认为Maurizio清洗葡萄是疯狂之举,而现如今鲜有人质疑他的成功。也许成功就是要走过一段无人问津、甚至周边质疑声不断的日子。而在很长很长幽暗隧道的尽头,会有更多人为你当初的执念而喝彩。

Removing wine lees is a crucial procedure before bottling. Wine lees (la feccia in Italian) is generally turbid and has an unpleasant smell. However, the wine made from the washed grapes has proven to provide clean and elegant aromas, adding an extra pleasant flavour to the aged wine. Therefore, Ca’ del Bosco chose to keep the wine lees. As Maurizio Zanella said, “following tradition does not mean insisting on blind worship of the past, but combining innovation with nature and quality”. At the very beginning, many people thought Maurizio was crazy to wash grapes, but now very few people can question his success.

Ca’del Bosco的采收季  /  Harvest at Ca’del Bosco

创新,就是要打破常规的思维。酒庄还专门设计了其独一无二的氮气密封的换塞流水线。在dégorgement过程中一般需要加入1mg的二氧化硫,无氧的环境使得可以不用添加这份二氧化硫。较低二氧化硫含量使得出产的Franciacorta更美味易饮。之后将葡萄酒移至地下石窖,静静陈年。

Innovation means breaking with conventional thinking. Ca’ del Bosco prides itself on its unique, original technology, aside from its grape “Jacuzzi” machine, it also has a special corking machine that eliminates oxygen prior to corking. Generally, 1mg of sulphites needs to be added in the process of dégorgement, and the total nitrogen environment makes it unnecessary to add this amount of sulphites. The oxygen-free process and environment reduces sulphites to the lowest level, resulting in healthier and tastier wines. After that, the wine is moved to an underground stone cellar to age peacefully. 

Ca’del Bosco酒庄随处可见的艺术品陈列  /  Ca’del Bosco’s art collection is everywhere at the winery

举杯,为Maurizio和Ca’ del Bosco及其他不走寻常路酿造优质葡萄酒的工匠们喝彩!

Cheers to Maurizio & Ca’ del Bosco, and all those who take such great effort to produce an amazing wine!

Ca’del Bosco葡萄酒  / Ca’del Bosco’s products

2 thoughts on “从森林小屋走向世界舞台 From Ca’ del Bosco to the World Stage

    1. Thank you so much for your comment! It’s a great pleasure to dive into the topic of our own interests and meet people who share the same wavelength. Such a pleasure to get connected with you through our blogs! Have a wonderful day!

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